REVIEW: Sarah Chapman Liquid Facial Resurfacer

Hi all!

Today I'll be reviewing the new Sarah Chapman skincare product: the Liquid Facial Resurfacer.


What is it?

Described by Chapman as a 'daily use complexion correcting liquid refiner', this product works a liquid, exfoliating toner, promoting a brighter, more radiant appearance, whilst plumping the skin, and creating the illusion of reduced pore size.

(NB: No product can actually 'close' or 'tighten' pores, because they don't open in the first place. There is no musculature around a pore to control its size. A pore can appear larger when clogged with sebum. The careful removal of oxidised sebum (blackheads) can reduce the appearance of a pore, but the pore never actually gets smaller. Nothing can constrict or close a pore; nor can steam open a pore.)

What's in it?

The full I.N.C.I. list can be found on both the Sarah Chapman website and SpaceNK:

WATER (AQUA), PHYTIC ACID, AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL, LACTIC ACID, SD ALCOHOL 40-B, PROPANEDIOL, SORBITOL, COPPER PCA, VACCINIUM MYRTILLUS FRUIT/LEAF EXTRACT, SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM (SUGAR CANE) EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS, ALGAE EXTRACT, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) FRUIT EXTRACT, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) FRUIT EXTRACT, SODIUM HYALURONATE, ALLANTOIN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE, ACER SACCHARUM (SUGAR MAPLE) EXTRACT, LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) SEED EXTRACT, ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA FLOWER EXTRACT, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, PEG-8/SMDI COPOLYMER, POLYSORBATE 20, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, XANTHAN GUM, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, DECYLENE GLYCOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, MENTHOXYPROPANEDIOL, MENTHOL, FRAGRANCE, GERANIOL, LIMONENE, LINALOOL.

The resurfacer contains a substantial amount of phytic acid, lending great antioxidants to the product, which should remain stable due to the opaque packaging of the product. Phytic acid, as a plant active, also lends an ability to exfoliate, by loosening cell cohesion and facilitating the shedding of corneocytes (the cells which form the upper-most layer of the skin: the stratum corneum). Lactic acid (an Alpha Hydroxy Acid) resurfaces the skin, with the resurfacer leveled at the correct pH for the acid to functon. Sodium hyaluronate (the salt of hyaluronic acid) hydrates and plumps the surface of the skin, further improving its texture. Vitamin E and C act as antioxidants within the formula, preventing premature aging.The addition of fruit extracts and menthol may be pose problems for extremely sensitive skin.


Usage

Chapman suggests using the product either AM or PM with a pad of cotton wool, always following with a broad spectrum SPF product (UVA and UVB).

After several weeks of use, I really do like this product. As an exfoliating toner, it does a great job of promoting a brighter, clear complexion, by gentling resurfacing the skin through acids. Those who haven't used leave-on acids before may notice a slight tingle with the first couple of uses, but nothing at all severe. If you notice prolonged redness after use (when using an SPF product), discontinue use.

The product has a slightly sticky, tacky texture when first applied, which is significantly less noticeable once it has dried. This may put some people off who prefer the feel of a slighter, water-like toner. Once dry, the resurfacer leaves the skin feeling primed and ready for the application of serum and moisturiser.

A really nice product for those who are fond of light, regular exfoliation and the use of acid toners.

Sarah Chapman Liquid Facial Resurfacer: £36 for 100ml at SarahChapman.net

ALEX

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REVIEW: Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Intensive Cleansing Balm

Hi all!

Cleansing balms: gentle, nourishing, luxuriant. For me, the cleansing balm has superseded cleansing gels, foams and lotions, providing all the rich nourishment of an oil, but with none of the mess or inconvenience of the oil squirting erratically out of the bottle and dribbling everywhere. I simply adore a cleansing balm. A couple of years ago, I tried the famed Emma Hardie moringa balm, and I was hooked.



Today I am reviewing the new Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Intensive Cleansing balm.


What is it?

Shu Uemura describe their cleansing balm as:

"a 2-in-1 intensive cleansing balm that goes beyond a superior cleansing ability to deliver visibly renewed skin. With continuous use, the skin feels soft yet firm, plumped and moisturized. Like magic, the cashmere-like balm melts instantly into a cocooning cleansing oil and wraps your skin gently in a light, fluffy veil. It is elaborately designed as a massage balm thanks to the cushioning feel of the texture between your skin and fingers. This luxurious balm delivers just the right amount of cushioning feel between the fingers and skin, making it ideal for quick renewing massages for busy lifestyles."

I'd agree. The description of the product may seem a little hyperbolic, but in my opinion, every word is true. It is heavenly.

What is in it?

A full ingredient list (I.N.C.I.) coming soon. Shu's claim that the 'Mother of Pearl protein' in the balm 'preserves [...] skin elasticity' is not supported with much clinical research, and so I personally am choosing to disregard this claim. However, the patented Pro-Xylane is a nice blend of emollient ingredients, used, I believe by L'Oreal. The brown algae extract within the balm acts as a thickening agent, while also holding antioxidant properties to defy premature aging. Primarily, the effect of the algae on the skin will be felt in the form of hydration.

Usage

A dream. I simply adore using cleansing balms, and this new product was no exception. Unbelievably soft, with an almost buttery consistency (in the best possible way). The tiniest piece of the balm spread easily over the face and neck, melting instantly into a luxuriously thick oil. I used a warm, clean, damp flannel/washcloth to remove the balm. This is my preferred method of removing all cleansers, but especially balms. I find that this method has reduced the number of blemishes and breakouts I encounter on my skin.

The cleansing balm left my skin feeling soft, supple and nourished; not at all dry or tight.

A really beautiful product. A significantly cheaper alternative is the Emma Hardie balm. For me, the Hardie one is unbeatable; the fragrance is divine, and the balm leaves your skin as soft as silk. The Shu Uemura one is a great alternative, especially if you like their Ultime8 cleansing oils. In my opinion, better than the famed Eve Lom cleanser, which is too waxy for me.

Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beuaty Intensive Cleansing Balm: £60.00 for 100ml at Liberty, SpaceNK, and Shu Uemura USA. Not yet available on Shu Uemura's UK site.

ALEX

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REVIEW: Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum

Hi all!

Dull, lifeless skin in need of a serious, instant reboost? Well, today's product review of Omorovicza's Gold Flash Firming Serum may be of interest to you.


What is it?

Firstly, here is Omorovicza's description of the serum:

"This silky anti-ageing serum instantly soothes and firms the skin. An oil free formulation, it absorbs instantly whilst potent ingredients, led by anti-inflammatory gold, help to repair and re-texture the skin, revealing a radiant, healthy and youthful-looking complexion."

Personally, I don't believe there is substantial research to make the claim that gold, unlike an ingredient such as bisabolol, is an effective anti-inflammatory. What this serum does contain is a wealth of ingredients that prevent free radical damage and premature aging. Speaking of which...


What's in it?

The ingredients list (I.N.C.I.) lists the following:

Aqua (Hungarian Thermal Water), Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Saccharomyces (Hungarian Thermal Water) Ferment Extract, Glycerin, Corundum (Pro Ruby Crystal), Phospholipids, Alcohol Denat., Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Niacinamide, Pullulan, Carbomer, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Mica, Zinc PCA, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorella Vulgaris/Lupinus Albus Protein Ferment, Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Colloidal Gold, Silica, Parfum (Fragrance), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dehydroacetic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Dextran, Linalool, Limonene, Eugenol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide).

Aside from Omorovicza's signature inclusion of Hungarian Thermal Water, the serum contains rose water (to scent the prpduct and hydrate the skin) and glycerin, in order to moisturise. The formula also contains a nice amount of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that can bind to many times its own weight in water, drawing water into the skin, while humectants bind it there, plumping the skin, and reducing the visibility of fine lines. For me, the anti-inflammatory properties of ruby crystals and gold mean nothing, and it always seems gimmicky, in my opinion, when a company chooses to spearhead a campaign with these ingredients. However, the gold, in unison with the light-reflective mica, allows the serum to illuminate the skin beautifully. Pullalan (derived from sugar) has the characteristic of creating a film on the skin, giving the impression that the skin is being tightened and lifted. I should stress that pullalan will not create any visible difference in your skin, but is included in many products, because consumers like to feel that the product is working. The significant quantity of niacinamide (vitamin B3) works as a brilliant antioxidant to prevent sun-related damage and premature aging. Antioxidants are a brilliant way to prevent damage to your skin, and should be consumed as part of your diet, and applied topically, by means of skincare products.

Usage

As with any other serum I use, I placed the Omorovicza Firming Serum after cleansing and toning and before my moisturiser. With Omorovicza's established status as a luxury brand, I was incredibly excited about how well the product would perform; the effects were stunning! In a similar manner to many hyaluronic acid formulas, the fine lines on my forehead were visibly reduced, and the texture of the skin appeared smoother and more refined. My favourite thing about the serum was its light-reflective quality. My face shone once the serum was applied; not at all shimmery or glittery, but instead, a lit-from-within glow. My skin was luminous...radiant...I loved it!

The serum is a quite pricey, but I truly believe serums are where the most money should be spent in your skincare. A cheap cleanser can improve your skin, if you select wisely. A cheap moisturiser can provide you with the hydration and moisture you need. But a cheap serum just won't do anything. When picking a serum, I personally look between the £30-90 ($40-100) range, and always opt for the brands that have a wealth of scientific expertise, research and money backing them. That's truly how I find the best results. I will never spend over £150 on a product. On the lower end, Vichy, Hylamide and Indeed never disappoint, whilst Omorovicza and Zelens are great if you can splash your cash a little more. The Omorovicza certainly doesn't disappoint with its ability to transform your skin. While you shouldn't expect a dramatic, wind-tunnel, face-lift effect, the serum definitely plumps and transforms the texture of the skin.

A brilliant serum for a special event or party!

Slight con: the glass packaging. As with all glass packaging, keep out of sunlight in order to maintain the quality of the active ingredients.

Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum: £135 for 30ml at Omorovicza.com

ALEX

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REVIEW: Waitrose Baby Bottom Butter (as a night cream?!)

Hi all,

Today's product review concerns Waitrose's Baby Bottom Butter for usage as a facial night cream. The product has seen much hype over the past five years, hailed by many as a miracle anti-aging product, so, as always I will be giving my honest opinion on the product, dispelling unnecessary hype when appropriate.


What is it?

Waitrose have provided the following the description of the butter:

"This rich moisturising cream has been made using only the purest ingredients, to sooth and protect your baby's skin. However, as many women have found, it can also be used on the face for a fresh, pampered complexion. The cream is enhanced with olive oil and chamomile, chosen for their nourishing properties, and also has a gentle vanilla fragrance to calm your baby."


What is in it?

"Olea Europaea Husk Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea Oil, Vanillin, Anthemis Nobilis Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol"

Brilliant - love it! So often with so-called sensitive baby skincare, I see products filled with harsh or stripping ingredients. This formula is simplicity personified. The butter consists of three olive oils, chamomile oil, vanilla extract (some nice antioxidant properties), and a few naturally-derived plant fragrances.


Usage

The product couldn't be simpler to use. When trialing the product, I used in the evening after cleansing and toning.

First thing I noticed about the product was the smell; you'll either love it or hate it. The aroma is extremely sweet and cloying, and the vanilla is almost overwhelming. For me, it smells almost identical to the sickly sweetness of white chocolate, which I imagine to be rather divisive. You'll either find the fragrance to be comforting or to be way too much. Personally, I am rarely bothered by a fragrance, and my likes and dislikes pertain to the actual results of the product.

The butter is extremely thick and oily, almost like a very thick cleansing balm. It does kind of feel like rubbing grease onto your face, but I love it - I do tend to look like an oil slick before I go to sleep. I found that this heavy texture was great at combating areas of dryness on my face, and had a truly nourishing effect on my skin overnight.

Does this product deserve the bestowal of 'anti-aging miracle' status? Quite frankly, no. With the omission of peptides, retionols and a significant amount of antioxidants, it can hardly be used as a substitute for products designed with that purpose in mind. But let's not forget what this is; after all, the butter was not originally designed for the purpose of facial skincare. It is an extremely simple formula, but if you need something nourishing to help combat dry skin, give this a go. I am now using it myself, in rotation with a retinol cream, a shea butter cream, and a facial oil.

Oh! And the best part? It costs £3.20 for 125ml. Amazing! Well done, Waitrose!

Waitrose Baby Bottom Butter: £3.20 for 125ml at Waitrose, UK
ALEX

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REVIEW: Dermalogica Dermal Clay Cleanser

Hi all!

I've been a semi-loyal user of Dermalogica products for a couple of years now, and thought that today I should review the Dermal Clay Cleanser.


What is it?

I'll start with Dermalogica's own explanation of the product:

"Purify and refine oily skin with this deep-cleansing clay formula, containing oil-absorbing, water-soluble Kaolin and Green clays. Calming Cucumber and Sage soothe, while refreshing Menthol revitalizes even the most tired skin. Formulated without artificial fragrances and colors."

Okay. In regards to texture, the cleanser has the consistency of a very light moisturiser. Somewhere in between and fluid and a gel. It doesn't feel thick or dry like most clay-based products. The clay makes it suitable for congested/spot-prone skin that needs a deep cleanse.



What is in it?

The INCI (ingredients) list states:
Water (Aqua), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Kaolin, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Oleate, Illite, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Root Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/ Root Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Trioleate, Menthol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)

Kaolin (clay) may pose problems for people with very dry skin.

Regarding the menthol, read on... 



Usage

"Apply to dampened face and throat, massaging with light, upward strokes. Concentrate on oily areas. Rinse with warm water and repeat."

Upon opening the product, the very first thing I noticed was a strong smell of menthol. Menthol is not for everybody. I associate it with terrible experiences in the past, where a product has made my face feel like it is on fire. I should add that I do not have sensitive skin. I can tolerate most things, but can't stand the discomfort of menthol 99% of the time.

As soon as I put the cleanser on as instructed, yup...the menthol burn. That minty cool/raging fire feeling. Not unbearable, but certainly not at all comfortable. I would not recommend this product for use around the eyes. Due to the light texture of the product, it spread onto the face and neck extremely easily, which was nice. A little of the product goes a long way.

I removed the product with my usual cleansing method; namely a warm flannel. The cleanser removed extremely well, and I repeated the cleansing process as instructed. Due to the menthol burn, the whole process was not at all enjoyable. By the time I was doing my second application, I couldn't wait for it to be over.
Once the second application was complete, my skin did admittedly feel great. The menthol leaves a minty cool feeling once the product has been removed; a feeling nothing like the raging fire from before. My skin didn't feel at all dry, which I was pleased to note, because many clay-based masks and cleansers can dry and strip the skin of its natural oils. I contribute the high percentage of safflower seed oil (second ingredient on INCI list) as the reason why my skin was left feeling comfortably moisturised. The kaolin clay - a highly absorbent ingredient - had done its job though, drawing a few red pimples to the surface of the skin. I found that by the next day, these pimples had gone, and found that the cleanser helped with clearing my skin of the spot congestion.

"The consistency of a very light moisturiser"

To sum up

Using this cleanser was not one of the most pleasant experiences I've had. The presence of menthol, in my opinion, makes this unsuitable for people with sensitive. The product did a good job of dealing with my congested skin without stripping it of too much oil. For that reason, I'd recommend the cleanser for people with oily or combination (i.e. oily forehead, nose, and chin and relatively dry cheeks) skin, but not so much for very dry skin, as the clay will only exacerbate that condition. The cool, tingly feeling result from the product would perhaps make this nice during the height of summer, but again, I wouldn't recommend this for sensitive skin, so if you are suffering from allergy-related sensitivity, please avoid.

Overall, the cleanser did it's job. At the price it is, it's very expensive for what is essentially the same as any clay cleanser or mask, and did not have any remarkable results. However, if you like other Dermalogica products, you may wish to try it. I found the addition of menthol to be unnecessary, and for me, it made the usage of the product extremely uncomfortable. It did however cleanse sufficiently without being drying on my skin.

You just have to way up whether you are willing to pay this price for average results.

Dermal Clay Cleanser, £28.00 for 250ml at Dermalogica


ALEX

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Why skincare?

The initial question I encounter when I tell my friends about the decision to write this blog. The question to which I answer unthinkingly: BECAUSE I LOVE IT! Why write about skincare? Why write about the products I buy, try and test on my face, in the hope that others will read what I have to say?

For as long as I can remember, skincare has played an important role in my life. From a young age, my mother – a former beauty therapist – instilled within my sister and me the importance of good, regular skincare. As a child, this only took the form of a gentle cleansing lotion and moisturiser, but the fact remains that the concept of a skin routine was never alien to me, and importantly, my mother taught me the importance of regular skincare; taking care of my face was as important a part of my day as bathing and brushing my teeth.

As I got older and made my way through the awkward and cringeworthy years that are adolescence, my skin was fortunate enough to remain relatively unscathed by teenage hormones. Aside from the occasional breakout of spots across my forehead (not helped by the presence of a fringe!) and ever-present blackheads, my skin thankfully remained in a decent condition.

Not all my friends were as fortunate. At the age of twenty, with those teenage years behind me, my friends and I are now assessing the current condition of our skin; some of us never blighted by acne, and some still plagued with it now. For many of them, skincare seems inaccessible. Whether it is the repeated disappointment from products that simply do not do what they promise, the overly verbose jargon on packaging (a lot of it being complete nonsense), or the fact that they simply don’t know where to begin, they struggle with how to select products that work for their skin.

But why write about skin? When I would take just as much pleasure talking about makeup, and the inclusion of light-reflectives and hyaluronic acids in foundation, why am I choosing to write a blog on the topic of skincare? Because skin is universal. The desire to look in the mirror and see our natural, unmasked faces in the best condition they can be is completely universal; a desire shared by men, women, young and old. Not everyone wants to wear where makeup – and frankly finding makeup that works for you can be even more confusing – but everyone would love to be untroubled by pimples, acne, fine lines and the like.

So where does this blog come in? My hope for this blog is to create a way of bridging the gap between people – like my friends – who don’t know where to start, and the information we have at our fingertips to improve skin. Unaffiliated with any skincare brand, I am aiming to create a resource that consists of honest product reviews and the science behind skincare, stripping away the unnecessary and nonsensical, and demystifying the beauty industry.

ALEX

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